What is white gold: composition, price, and care
White gold is real gold. It is not silver, nor is it plated, nor is it "second-rate" gold: it is the same yellow gold as always, mixed with other metals that remove its golden color and turn it white.
What is white gold?
Pure gold, which is 24-karat, is intense yellow and too soft to make jewelry for daily wear. That is why it is always alloyed. When we speak of 18-karat white gold —the kind we work with in our jewelry store— we are talking about a piece that has 750 parts of pure gold for every 1,000, meaning 75% gold. The remaining 25% is what changes the color.
If that 25% is made with copper and silver, you get yellow gold. If it is loaded with copper, you get rose gold. And if it is mixed with white metals—palladium, silver, zinc and, in older alloys, nickel—, you get white gold. Same gold, same purity, same 750 hallmark. Only the company it keeps changes.
Why white gold is rhodium-plated
Here is what almost no one tells you, and it is the question we are asked most often at the counter.
Freshly alloyed white gold is not completely white. It is more of a light gray with a slightly warm undertone, because no matter how much you mix it, that 75% gold is still yellow and shines through. To achieve that bright, clean, mirror-like white that people expect when they ask for white gold, the pieces are coated with a very thin layer of rhodium.
Rhodium is a metal from the platinum family: very white, very hard, and very resistant to scratching. The layer is microscopic —measured in microns— and is applied by electrolysis.
And because it is a coating, it wears off with use. That is normal and not a defect of the jewelry. What varies is the speed:
- Rings and bracelets: these suffer the most. Friction with handbags, the steering wheel, keyboards, keys. They usually require rhodium plating every 1 to 2 years if worn every day.
- Earrings and pendants: they barely rub against anything. They can go 5 years or more without needing anything.
When the rhodium wears off, the piece does not exactly look "bad": it starts to lean toward yellowish or grayish, usually starting at the edges and the bottom of the band. The solution is simple and inexpensive: the piece is cleaned and rhodium-plated again. It looks like new. In our jewelry store, we do this regularly, even on pieces that were not purchased here.
Is white gold more expensive than yellow gold?
Almost always a little bit yes, but less than people imagine —and not because of the gold.
For the same karat and weight, the amount of gold is exactly the same: a 5-gram 18k white gold ring and a 5-gram 18k yellow gold ring both contain 3.75 grams of pure gold. The value of the precious metal is identical.
The price difference comes from two sources:
- The alloy: palladium, which provides the best white color, is highly valued and makes the mixture more expensive than the copper in yellow gold.
- Rhodium plating: it is an extra workshop step, using an expensive metal, that yellow gold does not need.
That is why the same piece in white usually costs a tiny bit more than in yellow. We are talking about a small premium, not double the price.
How much is 1 gram of white gold worth?
There is no fixed price, because it depends on the market price of gold, which changes every day. But the calculation is simpler than it seems.
In terms of metal content, 18k white gold is worth the same as 18k yellow gold: 75% of the pure gold price that day. If you want a quick reference, divide the price of a gram of 24-karat gold by four and multiply it by three.
What is not included in that calculation —and what makes a piece of jewelry worth more than just its weight— is the labor, the design, the stones if it has any, and the rhodium plating. A crafted ring is not just an ounce of metal.
And conversely: if someone offers you white gold significantly below that calculation, it is probably not 18k gold. Always check the 750 hallmark on the piece and ask for a certificate of authenticity.
White gold, silver, and platinum: they are not the same
They look similar to the eye but have nothing to do with each other.
Sterling silver (925) is another metal, significantly more economical. Its great practical difference is that it oxidizes: over time and with contact with air, sweat, or perfumes, it takes on a dark tone that must be cleaned. White gold never oxidizes; the only thing that happens is that it loses its rhodium, which is something else entirely. For those who want white jewelry and do not want to be cleaning it, that is the important difference.
Platinum is white by nature and does not need rhodium plating. It is also significantly denser —a piece of the same size weighs clearly more— and more expensive. For wedding bands, it is an alternative, but it is in a different price bracket.
White gold and nickel allergy
In the past, white gold was often alloyed with nickel, and nickel is the most frequent contact allergen there is. That is where the idea that "white gold causes allergies" comes from.
Today in Europe, regulations limit the amount of nickel that a piece of jewelry can release onto the skin, and modern quality alloys are made using palladium. If you have had problems with costume jewelry or an old piece, it is worth asking about the alloy before buying; we will tell you without any problem.
How to care for a piece of white gold jewelry
- Take it off when cleaning, swimming in the pool, or going to the beach. Chlorine is public enemy number one: it attacks the alloy and leaves the surface dull.
- Perfume and cologne, apply before putting it on, never directly on top.
- Cleaning at home: lukewarm water with a little neutral soap and a soft toothbrush. Dry with a lint-free cloth. No bleach, ammonia, or abrasive products.
- Store it separately, in a small bag or compartment. Rhodium-plated white gold is hard, but it will scratch against other pieces.
- When you notice it starting to lean toward yellow, do not discard it: have it rhodium-plated. It recovers completely.
In summary
White gold is 18k gold with the same purity as yellow gold, dyed white by its alloy and finished with a layer of rhodium that is renewed from time to time. It does not oxidize like silver, it costs a little more than yellow gold due to the alloy and rhodium plating, and with four basic care steps, it lasts a lifetime.
If you are thinking of a specific piece, in our catalog you have white gold jewelry, and by categories: white gold rings, white gold earrings, white gold pendants and white gold chains. All pieces carry their 750 hallmark and certificate of authenticity, with free shipping and 15 days to exchange them.
And if you have questions about a piece of jewelry you already own —whether it is real white gold, if it needs rhodium plating, how much it weighs— bring it to the shop or write to us on WhatsApp. We have been in Alginet since 1972 and we see this every day.